It’s laborious to overstate simply how seismic an impression the Monaco Evergraph created at its launch throughout Watches and Wonders Geneva this yr. Housed within the well-loved and immediately recognisable sq. Monaco case, the watch might need handed for one more good new Monaco, however its motion is something however standard. One may consider it as retaining a basic automotive’s chassis, although after making some enhancements and modifications, whereas fully changing the inner combustion engine with a hydrogen gas cell – an entirely completely different technique of vitality transformation and energy era that’s much more fuel-efficient and responsive, freed from emissions and pollution, and virtually silent.
Developed by TAG Heuer Lab, in collaboration with Vaucher, the Calibre TH80-00 automated motion is that groundbreaking engine swap. As an alternative of incrementally refining current chronograph designs, the group took the audacious choice to construct a brand new chronograph from the bottom up. The watchmakers overhauled the standard idea of chronograph development by foregoing levers and is derived in favour of two versatile bistable parts, to enhance performance and the tactility of actuating begin, cease and reset with quick, crisp transitions and no put on or deviation in efficiency over time and after repeated use.
The Calibre TH80-00 isn’t the one improve within the Monaco assortment this yr. Unveiled concurrently, the brand new Calibre TH20- 11 automated in-house motion is derived from the Calibre TH20- 00 automated chronograph motion after years of growth to transform the winding stem and crown to the left, and named in tribute to the Calibre 11 of 1969, with the mechanical throughline being the left-handed winding. Nonetheless, that progenitor was a composition of a Buren base motion with a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module, whereas the Calibre TH20-11 contains a absolutely built-in development, with a column-wheel-based mechanism. In a visible callback to the version of the Monaco made well-known by Steve McQueen, the Calibre TH20-11 is housed in a refined titanium Monaco case that includes the identical navy, white and crimson colourway, and in addition obtainable in variations with a inexperienced sunray brushed dial or a black opaline dial.
Firmly within the driver’s seat for these momentous releases is TAG Heuer’s Chief Product Officer Maria Laffont, whose tenure on the La Chaux-de-Fonds model has seen consecutive wins since she joined in March 2021 as Vice President Design & Product: the Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” 39mm unveiled for the gathering’s sixtieth anniversary in 2023, the Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde of 2024 and its colored lab-grown diamonds, the 2025 introduction of the TH-Carbonspring oscillator (within the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Excessive Sport TH-Carbonspring restricted editions), plus collaborative editions with Porsche and with Staff Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Division.
We spoke to Laffont throughout Watches and Wonders this yr in regards to the newest Monaco chronograph improvements, in addition to setting the course for the seamless fusion of technical and materials innovation, adherence to model heritage, considerate performance, and impeccable aesthetics.
How does specializing in chronographs this yr match into TAG Heuer’s historical past with this complication, and the way does this course impression TAG Heuer’s future growth?
It is a superb begin, for certain. The chronograph is our defining complication, as a result of TAG Heuer is about efficiency, sports activities and athletes. It’s the timekeeper of high-stakes moments, these distinctive moments when a driver will break his document, these particular and virtually suspended moments when every second counts. That’s why timekeeping is completely essential for us, and timekeeping is synonymous with chronographs. Right now, we have now completely different choices for chronographs, ranging from quartz chronographs, which we’ll proceed to develop, and the automated chronograph, and now the brand new Evergraph. After which we have now the king of the chronograph, the split-second. We have already got these in our vary, and we’re already engaged on different tales, as a result of that is our identification.
Particularly for the Monaco Evergraph and the Monaco chronograph launched this yr, what do they are saying in regards to the Monaco assortment and the bigger TAG Heuer model?
It’s a defining second, as a result of this Evergraph is the reinvention of the chronograph mechanism itself, and that is for us an enormous milestone, not just for the Monaco assortment, however for the model, and I dare to say, for the business. Everyone knows the normal mechanism with the vertical (and horizontal) clutches, and at present we have now a very new option to construct a chronograph. We’re doing that as a result of we’re pushed by innovation, and what we needed to attain is to enhance the chronograph when it comes to efficiency, sturdiness and reliability. For that, we’re very fortunate as a result of we have now a TAG Heuer Lab in our manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and on this TH-Lab, we have now nice engineers who’re in fixed dialogue with the artistic groups and the designers. This brings to life loopy ideas comparable to this (bistable compliant) mechanism. We invented this versatile part, which replaces many parts which can be stiff, so it permits the mechanism to have much less friction and be sturdy. Chronographs are so essential to us, however previously the applied sciences to provide this type of very particular part didn’t exist. That’s why it’s essential to innovate.
In growing the Evergraph and its motion, would you say it’s extra of an indication of TAG Heuer’s skill, or as a result of the group essentially believed that there have been flaws within the standard chronograph motion that you just needed to problem?
We had been satisfied that there was a manner to enhance and, after we are crafting and designing timepieces, we all the time have athletes in thoughts. We’re all in regards to the efficiency, it’s completely key, and that’s why we’re all the time pushing the bounds by conserving this in thoughts. We had been satisfied that there’s a manner to enhance this chronograph mechanism. So it’s not as a result of the prevailing one is dangerous; it’s extra as a result of we’re pushed by this perception that we are able to go even additional and discover a new manner. It’s extra of a mindset.
After which particularly for the title, Evergraph, what was the story of the way you landed on this title?
It was via group brainstorming. “Graph” remembers chronographs, and it’s additionally our inside language – we have now the Mikrograph – and a model signature. “Ever” conveys the truth that it’s sturdy and dependable. However we had many alternative choices, and as is usually the case at TAG Heuer, we arrived on the answer via teamwork. Ultimately, it’s true that somebody has to determine, and I’ve that nice accountability, however it’s all the time carried out via a group – group debate, teamwork, group spirit – that is one of the best ways to succeed.
Now that TAG Heuer is redefining what a chronograph is and what it may be, what occurs to the prevailing chronographs within the Monaco assortment and in the remainder of the model, like within the Carrera assortment? Will there be a break up between the so-called conventional chronographs and the Evergraph type of chronograph, and can the Evergraph’s TH80-00 motion be the idea of a brand new line of chronographs inside every assortment?
For me, it’s simply including a brand new class, so it won’t exchange others, as a result of we’d like others additionally – the quartz chronograph, the automated chronograph, the [manual-winding] chronograph, and now you could have the Evergraph; it won’t change the remainder of the assortment. And being a sq. motion, the TH80-00 wants a sq. case, so for the second it stays within the Monaco assortment. Sooner or later, let’s see.
OK, I’ll circle again subsequent yr. So how will this main inside change impression the picture of the Monaco assortment and of TAG Heuer’s chronographs, and what are some anticipated expectations of the affect on costs?
We’ve got a selected worth for this particular chronograph, and there’s no impression on others’ worth positioning. However what’s true is that the demonstration of this savoir-faire, this innovation, has a halo impact, as a result of, for certain, an avant-garde demonstration reveals how far we are able to go and the way we are able to create and innovate. So I feel it reaffirmed that we’re avant-garde. That is extra about our identification, I’d say it reinforces our model fairness, however it has no direct impression on the worth positioning.
Transferring on to the trio of Monaco chronographs, why had been these design selections made with these three references and the way do these enhance the aesthetics and wearer expertise?
First, the Monaco is our icon, and we’re pushed by efficiency and the truth that it needs to be very straightforward to put on as a result of it’s meant for athletes. However it’s true that with a sq., daring watch, we had some constraints when it comes to consolation on the wrist. It was a bit heavy, so generally it could actually shift, and it was not for each wrist, as a result of it’s fairly massive. We’re the watchmaker of efficiency, so we would have liked to have for our icon one thing that’s actually ergonomic. Clearly, we stored the important codes of the icon, such because the sq. form; we even strengthened the sq. form via the bezel, which was once a bit rounded and now it’s sq., so it follows the sapphire glass’s edges, and the highest case is sloped and extra built-in. And the caseback was once flatter and never as straightforward to put on, however now it’s sloped and bevelled, so it’s good and clean on the wrist. As for the burden, now the case is titanium, which is strong and light-weight.
On the dial, we additionally stored the important codes, as a result of these are so recognisable, such because the sub counters and the long-lasting blue as worn by Steve McQueen in Le Mans, these are legendary and collectors love them. The horizontal indices now have a curve on the finish, however it was once the reverse, and now we determined to have it like a pointer nearer to the [white dots on the minute track], to be extra purposeful as a result of it captures the sunshine. And [those white dots are] sq. now, however earlier than, they had been rounder. These are all very delicate particulars, and in case you don’t know, perhaps you’ll not discover them.
“We’re all the time keen about our initiatives, and I’ve the nice likelihood to be surrounded by passionate folks”
Within the design course of, how do you discover that equilibrium between aesthetics, performance and emotional impression? Is there all the time a trade-off in reaching the ultimate outcome, and the way do you determine what to sacrifice?
It’s actually this dialogue that we simply mentioned, which is nice as a result of there’s backwards and forwards: The designer might push for one thing, and the technician might invent one thing new. It’s a successful recipe. And emotion is essential as a result of we’re in watchmaking, so we’re creators of feelings. It’s about instinct too. It’s one thing that you just don’t have a recipe for. We’re all the time keen about our initiatives, and I’ve the nice likelihood to be surrounded by passionate folks. And if we create emotion, from the very starting we all know if it’s going to work, as a result of…I’m satisfied by the group spirit. Watchmaking is like an orchestra, as a result of you could have all of the completely different parts, and for every one you could have an skilled behind it, plus the designers and extra. That’s why this group is so essential, as a result of the watch is the creation of a group.
So if watch growth is like an orchestra, then that makes you the conductor?
(laughs) Possibly I’m too humble to say that, however yeah, sort of, let’s imagine that.
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW #86 Autumn 2026 difficulty.
For extra on the most recent in luxurious watch reads, click on right here.
