It’s onerous to overstate simply how seismic an impression the Monaco Evergraph created at its launch throughout Watches and Wonders Geneva this yr. Housed within the well-loved and immediately recognisable sq. Monaco case, the watch may need handed for an additional good new Monaco, however its motion is something however typical. One may consider it as retaining a traditional automobile’s chassis, although after making some enhancements and modifications, whereas completely changing the interior combustion engine with a hydrogen gas cell – a completely totally different technique of power transformation and energy technology that’s way more fuel-efficient and responsive, freed from emissions and pollution, and virtually silent.
Developed by TAG Heuer Lab, in collaboration with Vaucher, the Calibre TH80-00 computerized motion is that groundbreaking engine swap. As an alternative of incrementally refining present chronograph designs, the staff took the audacious choice to construct a brand new chronograph from the bottom up. The watchmakers overhauled the traditional idea of chronograph development by foregoing levers and is derived in favour of two versatile bistable parts, to enhance performance and the tactility of actuating begin, cease and reset with quick, crisp transitions and no put on or deviation in efficiency over time and after repeated use.
The Calibre TH80-00 shouldn’t be the one improve within the Monaco assortment this yr. Unveiled concurrently, the brand new Calibre TH20- 11 computerized in-house motion is derived from the Calibre TH20- 00 computerized chronograph motion after years of improvement to remodel the winding stem and crown to the left, and named in tribute to the Calibre 11 of 1969, with the mechanical throughline being the left-handed winding. Nevertheless, that progenitor was a composition of a Buren base motion with a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module, whereas the Calibre TH20-11 includes a absolutely built-in development, with a column-wheel-based mechanism. In a visible callback to the version of the Monaco made well-known by Steve McQueen, the Calibre TH20-11 is housed in a refined titanium Monaco case that includes the identical navy, white and pink colourway, and in addition out there in variations with a inexperienced sunray brushed dial or a black opaline dial.
Firmly within the driver’s seat for these momentous releases is TAG Heuer’s Chief Product Officer Maria Laffont, whose tenure on the La Chaux-de-Fonds model has seen consecutive wins since she joined in March 2021 as Vice President Design & Product: the Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” 39mm unveiled for the gathering’s sixtieth anniversary in 2023, the Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde of 2024 and its colored lab-grown diamonds, the 2025 introduction of the TH-Carbonspring oscillator (within the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Excessive Sport TH-Carbonspring restricted editions), plus collaborative editions with Porsche and with Workforce Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Division.
We spoke to Laffont throughout Watches and Wonders this yr in regards to the newest Monaco chronograph improvements, in addition to setting the course for the seamless fusion of technical and materials innovation, adherence to model heritage, considerate performance, and impeccable aesthetics.
How does specializing in chronographs this yr match into TAG Heuer’s historical past with this complication, and the way does this route impression TAG Heuer’s future improvement?
It is a superb begin, for positive. The chronograph is our defining complication, as a result of TAG Heuer is about efficiency, sports activities and athletes. It’s the timekeeper of high-stakes moments, these distinctive moments when a driver will break his report, these particular and virtually suspended moments when each second counts. That’s why timekeeping is totally essential for us, and timekeeping is synonymous with chronographs. At present, we have now totally different choices for chronographs, ranging from quartz chronographs, which we are going to proceed to develop, and the automated chronograph, and now the brand new Evergraph. After which we have now the king of the chronograph, the split-second. We have already got these in our vary, and we’re already engaged on different tales, as a result of that is our id.
Particularly for the Monaco Evergraph and the Monaco chronograph launched this yr, what do they are saying in regards to the Monaco assortment and the bigger TAG Heuer model?
It’s a defining second, as a result of this Evergraph is the reinvention of the chronograph mechanism itself, and that is for us an enormous milestone, not just for the Monaco assortment, however for the model, and I dare to say, for the trade. Everyone knows the standard mechanism with the vertical (and horizontal) clutches, and right now we have now a completely new method to construct a chronograph. We’re doing that as a result of we’re pushed by innovation, and what we wished to attain is to enhance the chronograph by way of efficiency, sturdiness and reliability. For that, we’re very fortunate as a result of we have now a TAG Heuer Lab in our manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and on this TH-Lab, we have now nice engineers who’re in fixed dialogue with the artistic groups and the designers. This brings to life loopy ideas equivalent to this (bistable compliant) mechanism. We invented this versatile element, which replaces many parts which are stiff, so it permits the mechanism to have much less friction and be sturdy. Chronographs are so essential to us, however previously the applied sciences to provide this sort of very particular element didn’t exist. That’s why it’s essential to innovate.
In creating the Evergraph and its motion, would you say it’s extra of an indication of TAG Heuer’s means, or as a result of the staff essentially believed that there have been flaws within the typical chronograph motion that you just wished to problem?
We had been satisfied that there was a manner to enhance and, after we are crafting and designing timepieces, we all the time have athletes in thoughts. We’re all in regards to the efficiency, it’s completely key, and that’s why we’re all the time pushing the bounds by conserving this in thoughts. We had been satisfied that there’s a manner to enhance this chronograph mechanism. So it’s not as a result of the prevailing one is dangerous; it’s extra as a result of we’re pushed by this perception that we are able to go even additional and discover a new manner. It’s extra of a mindset.
After which particularly for the identify, Evergraph, what was the story of the way you landed on this identify?
It was by staff brainstorming. “Graph” recollects chronographs, and it’s additionally our inner language – we have now the Mikrograph – and a model signature. “Ever” conveys the truth that it’s sturdy and dependable. However we had many various choices, and as is usually the case at TAG Heuer, we arrived on the answer by teamwork. Ultimately, it’s true that somebody has to determine, and I’ve that nice duty, nevertheless it’s all the time accomplished by a staff – staff debate, teamwork, staff spirit – that is one of the simplest ways to succeed.
Now that TAG Heuer is redefining what a chronograph is and what it may be, what occurs to the prevailing chronographs within the Monaco assortment and in the remainder of the model, like within the Carrera assortment? Will there be a break up between the so-called conventional chronographs and the Evergraph fashion of chronograph, and can the Evergraph’s TH80-00 motion be the idea of a brand new line of chronographs inside every assortment?
For me, it’s simply including a brand new class, so it is not going to substitute others, as a result of we’d like others additionally – the quartz chronograph, the automated chronograph, the [manual-winding] chronograph, and now you could have the Evergraph; it is not going to change the remainder of the assortment. And being a sq. motion, the TH80-00 wants a sq. case, so for the second it stays within the Monaco assortment. Sooner or later, let’s see.
OK, I’ll circle again subsequent yr. So how will this main inner change impression the picture of the Monaco assortment and of TAG Heuer’s chronographs, and what are some anticipated expectations of the affect on costs?
We now have a particular worth for this particular chronograph, and there’s no impression on others’ worth positioning. However what’s true is that the demonstration of this savoir-faire, this innovation, has a halo impact, as a result of, for positive, an avant-garde demonstration exhibits how far we are able to go and the way we are able to create and innovate. So I believe it reaffirmed that we’re avant-garde. That is extra about our id, I might say it reinforces our model fairness, nevertheless it has no direct impression on the value positioning.
Transferring on to the trio of Monaco chronographs, why had been these design selections made with these three references and the way do these enhance the aesthetics and wearer expertise?
First, the Monaco is our icon, and we’re pushed by efficiency and the truth that it needs to be very straightforward to put on as a result of it’s meant for athletes. But it surely’s true that with a sq., daring watch, we had some constraints by way of consolation on the wrist. It was a bit heavy, so generally it could actually shift, and it was not for each wrist, as a result of it’s fairly huge. We’re the watchmaker of efficiency, so we wanted to have for our icon one thing that’s actually ergonomic. Clearly, we stored the important codes of the icon, such because the sq. form; we even bolstered the sq. form by the bezel, which was once a bit rounded and now it’s sq., so it follows the sapphire glass’s edges, and the highest case is sloped and extra built-in. And the caseback was once flatter and never as straightforward to put on, however now it’s sloped and bevelled, so it’s good and easy on the wrist. As for the burden, now the case is titanium, which is powerful and light-weight.
On the dial, we additionally stored the important codes, as a result of these are so recognisable, such because the sub counters and the enduring blue as worn by Steve McQueen in Le Mans, these are legendary and collectors love them. The horizontal indices now have a curve on the finish, nevertheless it was once the reverse, and now we determined to have it like a pointer nearer to the [white dots on the minute track], to be extra practical as a result of it captures the sunshine. And [those white dots are] sq. now, however earlier than, they had been rounder. These are all very refined particulars, and when you don’t know, possibly you’ll not discover them.
“We’re all the time enthusiastic about our initiatives, and I’ve the good likelihood to be surrounded by passionate folks”
Within the design course of, how do you discover that equilibrium between aesthetics, performance and emotional impression? Is there all the time a trade-off in reaching the ultimate consequence, and the way do you determine what to sacrifice?
It’s actually this dialogue that we simply mentioned, which is sweet as a result of there’s backwards and forwards: The designer could push for one thing, and the technician could invent one thing new. It’s a successful recipe. And emotion is essential as a result of we’re in watchmaking, so we’re creators of feelings. It’s about instinct too. It’s one thing that you just don’t have a recipe for. We’re all the time enthusiastic about our initiatives, and I’ve the good likelihood to be surrounded by passionate folks. And if we create emotion, from the very starting we all know if it is going to work, as a result of…I’m satisfied by the staff spirit. Watchmaking is like an orchestra, as a result of you could have all of the totally different parts, and for each you could have an professional behind it, plus the designers and extra. That’s why this staff is so essential, as a result of the watch is the creation of a staff.
So if watch improvement is like an orchestra, then that makes you the conductor?
(laughs) Perhaps I’m too humble to say that, however yeah, type of, lets say that.
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW #86 Autumn 2026 difficulty.
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