With the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm, the model has lastly given us the extra restrained dive watch the neighborhood has been hankering for for the reason that mannequin returned to the fold in 2003. Since that point, Blancpain has heard from us all that we wished a extra compact model of the Fifty Fathoms, one in every of two claimants to the title of “world’s first dive watch.” Sticking to its weapons, Blancpain maintained that the Fifty Fathoms mannequin was made for professionals in 1953 and thus couldn’t be smaller than its 45mm dimension. After all, that authentic mannequin was 41mm, so…
Barring some restricted editions through the years, Blancpain has by no means given any indication that it will ever yield to persistent requests for a smaller diver. Even for ladies, who’re an necessary a part of the diving world. Nicely, we are able to all cease our bellyaching, as they are saying, as a result of there’s now a slew of Fifty Fathoms Automatique fashions to fulfill these constant requests, and they’re 38.2mm, to be exact. Now, we’ve to say that this was a little bit of a wink-and-a-nod type of drop from the model, with the primary two 38.2mm releases final week trying like standalone information. We wrote this whole story (for essentially the most half) with out understanding that extra watches had been on the way in which… One clue that extra fashions had been certainly coming was that the Web reacted slowly, uncharacteristically, and the press website was wobbly.
On these two girls’ fashions revealed first, may both of those ostensibly made-for-her watches attraction to males? That’s all the way down to style, after all, however – for the Singapore viewers – we expect one in every of these fashions can be good for SG60…
Anyway, if we’re being sincere, we expect {most professional} commentators (ourselves included) by no means thought the day would come when there can be a Fifty Fathoms mannequin smaller than 40mm… and the smallest watch within the vary is 42mm, with something smaller (howdy Hodinkee!) being restricted to very particular runs. Certainly, the existence of the Bathyscaphe line, which does supply extra restrained proportions, appeared to render questions on smaller Fifty Fathoms choices moot. Such options appear downright churlish, it may very well be argued. In spite of everything, the Bathyscaphe is kind of a wonderful dive watch in its personal proper; nonetheless, it’s not the Fifty Fathoms.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a proper correct icon and, if it’s your flavour of dive watch, nothing can substitute it. That is what all dive watches descend from- it’s an Ur kind that precedes ISO requirements. In some ways, the unique Fifty Fathoms set the usual, or predicted them, if you happen to choose. Which means that its kind and character are sacrosanct, and but… Blancpain itself has altered the watch from the 1953 authentic.
Nobody imagines that even the 2003 modern Fifty Fathoms was a duplicate, nor the 2007 model that heralded the return of the watch to the common assortment. Blancpain doesn’t do replicas, and neither does any watchmaking model that invests in its personal identification.
Earlier than we go additional, although, an precise introduction known as for, and we will organise by order of launch. What we’ve first, then, are the 2 girls’ automated 38.2mm dive watches, one in pink gold and one in brushed grade 23 titanium – Ref. 5007 3644A and Ref. 5007 12B44R, respectively. Each are 12mm thick, so nothing extraordinary there and are powered by the identical automated Calibre 1153, which boasts 100 hours of energy reserve however will not be chronometer licensed. Water-resistance is 300 metres and Blancpain has after all not shorted us on an exhibition caseback.
The titanium mannequin has a pink dégradé mother-of-pearl dial, whereas the pink gold watch sports activities a black dégradé mother-of-pearl dial. Blancpain calls these colors petal pink and smoky black. The titanium mannequin particularly leans into pink very closely, as you possibly can see.
Becoming a member of these two early birds are three formally “genderless,” fashions, all sharing the identical dimension and the identical Calibre 1153. These are Ref. 5007 1130 71S (polished metal with black dial and bezel); Ref. 5007 12B40 98S (satin brushed grade 23 titanium with blue dial and bezel); and Ref. 5007 36B40 O52B (pink gold with blue dial and bezel, this one with sail fabric strap).
Intriguingly, all 38.2mm fashions are sans date, which is a primary for the Fifty Fathoms assortment. Whereas that transfer could also be lauded by essentially the most peevish of the date window debaters, the identical could not maintain true for the horn spacing for all 38.2mm fashions, which is 19mm. That is completely different to the 42mm fashions (21.5mm) and the 45mm fashions (23mm); this has implications for individuals who wish to swap out straps ceaselessly and ought to be famous.
All fashions share the standard Fifty Fathoms numerals, hour markers, arms and bezels, so they give the impression of being very related when considered in a listing or on the web site. Simply as with the lug hole, there is likely to be delicate variations that can solely current themselves when the watches are examined bodily. An actual battle would possibly emerge between the 2 pink gold fashions, that are differentiated by dial and bezel solely.
Not having worn these watches in any kind, prototypes or in any other case, it’s troublesome to evaluate them relative to the rest. It is likely to be that the stability will probably be barely off or simply proper, however we are going to hazard a guess that the match over a wetsuit is likely to be lower than optimum. It ought to be apparent from the look of the watches that these newest propositions are leisure instruments, not skilled ones.
And that leaves us with the concept that is meant to be a second watch, or the first watch of an individual who doesn’t use it for diving. On that observe, the emblem engraved on the case flank stays in place within the 38.2mm mannequin, and this, too, is a function that’s a lot mentioned. It’s in all probability good that the gathering holds onto extra parts of its shared identification – it didn’t happen to us to even ask after the flank emblem initially.
We shut this primary look (at photos and specs) with a message from Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain (which was included within the press data and is kind of scrumptious): “The Fifty Fathoms is far more than a diver’s watch, it’s a logo of exploration and innovation. With the addition of latest fashions, we’re responding to a transparent demand whereas reaffirming that this assortment was at all times meant for all wrists. It’s a pure and necessary evolution for a watch born underwater, made to be worn anyplace.”
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW #79 Summer time 2025 Concern
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