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Tuesday, April 8, 2025

Chanel’s Grasp Perfumer Olivier Polge on Crafting Chanel’s Olfactory Legacy


Chanel’s grasp perfumer Olivier Polge (Picture: Courtesy of Chanel)

When Chanel’s in‑home perfumer Olivier Polge is at work, you’ll not catch a touch of perfume on him. He forgoes carrying fragrance throughout working hours to effective‑tune his olfactory senses, guaranteeing that nothing interferes together with his inventive course of.

With out the distraction of a private scent, he stays unclouded. This perception was shared by Polge throughout his first go to to Singapore lately, the place he attended a regional occasion celebrating the Chanel N°5 perfume vary.

Since its creation in 1921, the N°5 fragrance has stood as a revolutionary perfume, celebrated not just for its pioneering mix of floral and aldehyde notes, but in addition as the primary fragrance launched by a trend home. Polge has since carried this legacy ahead. Amongst his many creations for Chanel is the recent and trendy N°5 L’Eau — his tackle the home’s most well-known scent.

Since moving into his function as Chanel’s grasp perfumer in 2015 — following the tenure of his father Jacques — he has crafted 22 new fragrances for the maison, together with this yr’s Comète, the newest addition to the Les Exclusifs de Chanel vary.

Polge was on the town lately for a regional occasion celebrating the Chanel N°5 perfume vary (Picture: Courtesy of Chanel)

Reflecting on his first impressions of Singapore, Polge expressed shock on the metropolis’s lush panorama and tranquillity. “I used to be anticipating a really dense metropolis, but it surely’s way more unfold out and greener than I imagined. It’s additionally very calm,” he shared.

In an insightful fast‑fireplace session with GRAZIA Singapore, Polge shares his ideas on the function tradition performs in how perfumes are perceived and acquired, perfume layering and his inventive course of.

As you may need seen, Singapore is a culturally wealthy place, with individuals from various backgrounds. Do you suppose cultural range influences the perceptions and reception of fragrances?

Olivier Polge (OP): I believe it has a significant impression. I respect range usually, particularly since we stay in such an interconnected world … On the finish of the day, fragrance is a cultural artefact. Whereas Chanel is globally famend, its roots lie in French or European tradition. After we create fragrances, we achieve this from France for the world, however we’ve observed, with out essentially planning it, that some scents resonate extra in particular nations. That’s fascinating to me, particularly while you have a look at the info. [Climate, too,] performs a giant function [in how perfumes are perceived and received]. I lived in New York for 5 years, and the summers there are highly regarded and humid—one thing we don’t expertise in Europe, the place it’s drier. I realised that sure fragrances really feel extra comfy in a single local weather than one other.

Timeless but ever-evolving, Chanel No. 5 stays the final word image of sophistication, from the enduring aldehydic floral parfum to its trendy reinterpretations (Picture: Courtesy of Chanel)

Do you personally consider in having a signature scent?

OP: Personally, I consider perfume is tied to 1’s persona. I do consider in having one signature scent for myself, sure.

OP: I can’t [endorse it], as a result of I create [perfumes] that I contemplate completed and [can hold their] personal … However I additionally perceive that there are [cultural nuances]. For instance, I’ve travelled to the Center East, the place there’s a cultural method of fragrancing oneself. A clothier by no means is aware of how individuals will combine and match the garments they create, and [it’s the same for a perfumer]; that’s one of many surprises I welcome. I wouldn’t layer fragrances myself, however I perceive [why some would choose to do so].

Every variation of the Chanel No. 5 perfume embodies a distinct aspect of magnificence, guaranteeing its legacy endures throughout generations (Picture: Courtesy of Chanel)

OP: Chanel’s energy lies in our full management of the inventive course of—from proudly owning our formulation to sourcing and refining uncooked supplies. Every perfumer passes down their experience, guaranteeing continuity whereas permitting room for evolution. As an example, we’ve partnered with farmers in Grasse to domesticate the highest-quality flowers, even increasing into new crops like tuberose and iris. This meticulous strategy ensures consistency whereas enabling us to discover [new frontiers].

Traits can’t be ignored, however they should be approached thoughtfully. At Chanel, each creation should resonate with our heritage whereas addressing the current second. This steadiness is a energy, permitting us to innovate whereas staying true to our distinctive model. The richer our historical past, the extra freedom we’ve got to reinterpret it.

May you sum up for us your private philosophy concerning the work you do in a single sentence?

OP: Properly, in a single phrase, it’d be creation. It’s by no means copy. At Chanel, we’ll by no means identify a fragrance after a uncooked materials. We’re not making an attempt to breed nature. We’re all the time in a state of transformation. I really like transformation. I’d add that to creation—creation and transformation. Two phrases!

This text was first seen on Grazia Singapore.

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