After we first wrote up the Patek Philippe Ref. 7340/1R for the Imaginative and prescient challenge this yr, it was a no brainer: Patek Philippe debuts its first excessive complication – or grand complication because the model phrases it – within the Twenty~4 assortment. Simply seven years in the past, this common women’ watch household was all quartz, and in a particular form; then a spherical computerized mannequin debuted and we needed to surprise if the Genevan model would lastly increase up this household with a complication. Ref. 7340, as we’ll confer with it, is the reply to that query. After all, on reflection, that is maybe solely consistent with Patek Philippe’s plans, even earlier than the automated mannequin in 2018.
To know, we now have to journey slightly additional again, to a discontinued mannequin referred to as the Women First Chronograph Ref. 7071R. That watch represented a sea change at Patek Philippe and was considered a cheeky transfer means again in 2009, largely as a result of this was the debut of Patek Philippe’s new manufacture chronograph motion. For individuals who don’t bear in mind this, it actually did imply that males who didn’t like the thought of shopping for a women mannequin for themselves must sit out the primary look of calibre CH 29-535 PS. To be clear, it’s value remembering that in 2009, nobody was actually speaking about unisex watches as an actual phenomenon, and Ref. 7071R launched with diamonds (136 spherical ones on the dial flange). In different phrases, there was little question about what the watch was and who it was for, as if the identify Women First Chronograph didn’t give it away.
DIFFERENT STROKES
With the raft of releases this yr together with notably restrained girls’s watches – the Twenty~4 will not be a unisex assortment – in addition to the Cubitus Ref. 7128 (in two variants), it might be tempting to learn one thing concerning the function of treasured gems right here. When one contains watches comparable to Ref. 4946 and even the equally sized Ref. 6196, the notion that the manufacture needs to supply sober watches to girls features floor. Nevertheless, not solely has this been occurring for awhile – and we now have not even introduced Ref. 7040 and Ref. 7130 into it – however Patek Philippe actually recognises the artisanal worth of gemsetting in conventional watchmaking. Look to this yr’s Ref. 5811/1460 and Ref. 7010G for proof.
After all, the purpose is that there are different types of watches for various tastes, and a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar needn’t be enriched with diamonds to enchantment to girls. Now right here, there’s something of a relationship with Ref. 7071R as a result of the brand new Ref. 7340 might have gone the identical means however didn’t. The result’s a watch that’s way more inclusive and open, whereas additionally bearing the excellence of being first in additional than only one means. Ref. 7340 is the additionally the primary spherical Twenty~4 watch with out a gem-set bezel. Whereas we welcome this, we revise our earlier evaluation that the watch represents a “feminine collector prioritising substance over sparkle, and heritage over novelty.” There are usually not any priorities right here, until it pertains to making the wealth of watchmaking’s enchantment extra obvious. Because of this the easy three-hander is the preferred conventional watch of all, however we’re getting forward of ourselves.
COMPLICATED AESTHETICS
Since we now have lined Ref. 7340 at size, allow us to spare just a few phrases to revisit the fundamentals, and a few particulars. Performing on all fronts of the 36mm Ref. 7340/1R is the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 Q, the identical motion behind a few of Patek Philippe’s grand complication perpetual calendars. This in fact signifies that we’re taking a look at continuity within the grand complication space, and a modular calibre whose virtues are nicely recognised. Regardless of measuring a svelte 3.88mm, the 275-component calibre with a 48-hour energy reserve drives a whole perpetual calendar show that requires no guide correction till 2100.
Though the calibre right here is actually what makes the watch work, additionally it is a press release: in an excellent watch, complexity is the draw, and it may possibly inform aesthetics. With its a number of subdials, the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar does present fairly a whimsical face to the world. Gemsetting might add worth right here nevertheless it ought to be commensurate with the virtues of a storied calibre comparable to 240 Q. Once more, take into account Ref. 5811 and Ref. 7010 for good measure. Bringing in Ref. 4946 seals the deal for this story – right here too, the aesthetic worth is provided by the subdials of the annual calendar complication.
TEXTURED APPEAL
On a closing notice about Ref. 7340, there are two dial variations in play however each fashions are in rose gold, with matching bracelets. The 7340/1R-001 sports activities a silvery dial with vertical and horizontal satin-brushed ending that resembles shantung (or Shandong) silk’s distinctive woven texture. Suffice to say that photos don’t do that type of textured dial any favours; see it in particular person for those who can. The second choice, Ref. 7340/1R-010, is maybe extra consistent with tendencies as a result of the dial is sunburst olive inexperienced dial. Nevertheless one feels about that, the colourway fits rose gold and won’t disappoint, though we stay extra satisfied by the shantung model.
To shut, we return to the enchantment of the three-hander, which for our functions listed here are the 2 variations of Ref. 7128. Not like the Twenty~4, these are usually not particularly watches for girls, simply smaller variations – Ref. 5821 debuted in 2024 as a 45mm actually sq. watch, and two new references (7128/1G and 7128/1R) are 40mm. The big and “medium-sized,” as Patek Philippe describes the brand new watches, are each powered by the identical calibre, the automated 26-330 S C. This has the odd impact of demonstrating that this motion is extra at house on this very modest case measurement. Definitely, 40mm will not be small and the actual distinction is the house between the central hyperlinks, prime to backside. That is actually what makes the 45mm model put on massive.
The underside line, in fact, is that the watches ostensibly pitched to girls within the Patek Philippe vary this yr are actually good for anybody with the precise type of wrist. Taken as an entire, they characterize an enchantment aimed toward girls preferring extra sobriety of their watches. Or they may simply be nice watches for anybody with good style. That could be a place we will get behind.
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW Legacy 2025 Concern
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