What’s the worth of a model? For many of Swiss watchmaking, the reply actually may go all the way in which to 100. To be inquisitive about any given watch, you must first learn about it and identify recognition performs a giant position there, clearly. This will result in some awkward moments – the uninitiated may assume Richard Mille is the person who makes the watches. Whereas which may make you just a little smug, expensive reader, do not forget that you too may simply be caught off guard.
To make use of an analogy, simply because you’ve got a great alpine place and may execute demanding activates a ski slope, that doesn’t imply you are able to do the identical if you go off-piste. Allow us to carry this again to watchmaking with the suitable instance. When somebody asks how Jasmine Audemars and Olivier Audemars are associated, you is perhaps flummoxed – that could be a story for one more time however you catch our drift right here. And no, Google and AI won’t supply a transparent reply, although neither can be incorrect.
On that word, when you have your AI assistant prepared, ask why Rexhep Rexhepi calls his model each Akrivia and his personal identify. Here’s what Gemini advised us: “Rexhep Rexhepi makes use of each names to tell apart between two completely different aesthetic and philosophical expressions of his watchmaking. Whereas each are produced throughout the similar Atelier Akrivia in Geneva, they signify “two sides of the identical coin”.
Akrivia (The Model): Based in 2012, this identify comes from the Greek phrase for “precision”. The Akrivia assortment includes a daring, modern fashion with complicated, avant-garde case designs and bold issues like tourbillons.
Rexhep Rexhepi (The Founder’s Assortment): Launched in 2018 with the Chronomètre Contemporain (RRCC), this assortment is neo-classical and chic. It focuses on conventional strategies and refined, vintage-inspired aesthetics, typically that includes spherical circumstances and grand feu enamel dials.
This dichotomy exists for a number of causes:
Private Maturity: Rexhepi initially selected the identify “Akrivia” as a result of he was solely 25 and felt he lacked the arrogance to place his personal identify on a dial.
Market Demand: By 2018, he realised collectors particularly needed timepieces signed by the watchmaker.
Honouring Custom: Signing his personal identify pays homage to his “faculty watch” at Patek Philippe, the place he was exceptionally permitted to inscribe his identify on the dial as a teen.
Maintain all this in view, as a result of it’s fairly a great rationalization, whereas we backtrack just a little to clarify Rexhepi’s historical past and the model too. The watchmaker’s story has been gaining followers since 2012, when Akrivia debuted with a convincing thud. It appeared useless on arrival, as Rexhepi himself has expressed many instances. Timing may need one thing to do with this, what with it being 2012 and every little thing.
Rexhepi’s story is comparatively well-known right now, given that he’s a Kosovan making his mark within the coronary heart of previous Geneva. He has had a most uncommon path in coming to conventional Swiss watchmaking, though it might have been a wonderfully pure one for a younger Swiss particular person, for instance. He arrived in Geneva from Kosovo on the age of 12, amidst the troubles in his homeland. Reunited together with his father, whose watches he had at all times been fascinated by, Rexhepi was now a stranger in a wierd land.
Simply two years later, at 14, he started an apprenticeship at Patek Philippe. It was right here that the seed of his personal identify in watchmaking was first planted; he was one of many few apprentices permitted to signal his personal identify on his “faculty watch” dial. But, it might take one other decade, a stint at BNB Idea, and the founding of Akrivia in 2012 earlier than he really discovered his voice.
Quick-forward to 2018 and every little thing modified. Collectors had been clamouring for the human contact – the signature of the watchmaker himself. With the steerage of trade leaders comparable to Michael Tay of The Hour Glass, Rexhepi pivoted to the Chronomètre Contemporain. The watch didn’t simply win the GPHG Males’s Watch Prize that yr; it signalled the arrival of a brand new “chief,” for a brand new era.
Right this moment, Rexhepi is not the “foolish child” he describes within the following pages. He’s the grasp of an artisanal workshop the place “adequate shouldn’t be good.” On this candid dialog, he displays on the animal intuition that drove him to start out his personal model, the evolution of his aesthetic, and why he believes his journey is barely simply starting.
You’ve been inquisitive about watches for mainly your complete life. What was the pivotal second for you to decide to journey in your identify?
Really, I used to be by no means assured sufficient to say, “I’ll put my identify on the dial” for one cause: I’ve a whole lot of respect for Swiss watchmaking. Frankly, I believed, “I’m from Kosovo, perhaps I shouldn’t put my (Kosovan identify) on a Swiss watch.” I used to be a bit shy, perhaps having a bit an excessive amount of respect for Swiss custom.
Later, a number of folks advised me I ought to use my identify. Michael Tay was actually the man who stated, “Have a look at the historical past. The historical past is all about (signing your identify). You will have watchmakers who put their names on the dial, so it’s best to simply strive it.” He gave me the arrogance to strive it, and I took the choice.
While you began Akrivia – I feel you had been 25, simply after you left F.P. Journe – you’d have already identified of Kari Voutilainen and Roger Smith, for instance. There are a variety of others who should not Swiss.
However the factor is… let’s say you’re 25; you’re a foolish child. You don’t have the identical perception (as somebody older, with extra expertise). I simply didn’t really feel assured sufficient. I checked out (the previous guard), they usually had some (gravitas), that they had their tales. I didn’t have any story. I used to be like, “Hey, I’m 25 and I’m a watchmaker so now I need to launch my model.” Again then, it was not that well-liked to change into unbiased at 25. Right this moment, it’s loopy – you end faculty, you set your identify on a watch, and it’s okay. However earlier than, it was a bit extra restrained.
Folks name you a “chief” of this era. I don’t assume that’s one thing that you just ever aspired for. However how do you are feeling now that you end up on the forefront of all these younger guys who confirmed up and determined, “Okay, we’ve got our names now on our watch,” like Sylvain Pinaud and Theo Auffret?
In the event that they assume like this about me, I’m tremendous comfortable. However actually, I simply see my job; what I’ve to do; and my challenges. I’ve been impressed by a whole lot of watchmakers as a result of they did nicely. That’s my solely true problem (to do in addition to they did). So, I’m making an attempt to do my finest, and if I can encourage, or if I could be a chief within the eyes (of the younger watchmakers), I’m tremendous comfortable. But it surely won’t change something in my method.
I problem every little thing as a result of I feel we (watchmakers) have a lot to do and I imagine we are able to do every little thing right now. My era was younger, it’s true, and we’re a bit older than (the youthful era of independents) now. So perhaps we had been a bit extra experimental (on the similar level) than they’re right now.
While you had been at F.P. Journe and pondering, “Okay, now could be the time to start out,” why precisely that second? As a result of I feel you had supposed to stick with Journe just a little longer.
Quite simple. Somebody requested me, “When you might help me with this, I gives you the chance to make use of my engineers,” and issues like that. It was a possibility, so I needed to take it. You simply really feel it was the precise second. I actually attempt to observe my emotions, my natural instincts. I simply felt prefer it was the precise time. Really, it wasn’t the precise time! (laughs) I made a mistake – however at that second I felt it was the precise time to start out.
While you began, did you’ve got the form, the fashion, or the impression of the watch in your thoughts?
No. You dream about good issues. You understand a number of the issues that you just like. However actually, you don’t actually know precisely what will probably be. You dream; you’ve got tastes that change daily.
It’s straightforward for somebody to look to the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain (RRCC) and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) as a result of that’s typically what sticks in folks’s minds. However the RRCC shouldn’t be the primary watch that you just made, and it seems to be completely different from the place you began. How did that evolution occur? Did you uncover that truly you needed to make these watches and never the others?
Sure. Like a child, you at all times observe your goals and what you need to do, however you don’t assume an excessive amount of. Slowly, with years, you realise what’s vital, what you need to do, what you need folks to recollect, or what actually impressed you. Slowly, you begin to end up and say, “Okay, right now I’ve some issues that I need to do as a result of they make sense for me.” I need to do that complication by bringing some invention or one thing new. A couple of years in the past, it was sort of, “Oh, I like this.” Right this moment it’s (completely different); it’s very significant. That is how I see watchmaking. That is the place I see I can do one thing a bit greater than solely doing a watch; there’s a message. It’s a bit deeper than earlier than.
On that word, let’s begin near the start, perhaps with the tourbillon?
For me, the tourbillon… the explanation why I did it is extremely easy. It was a call I took in a short time as a result of I bear in mind the Patek Philippe 10-Day Tourbillon. I used to be fascinated by this watch. I noticed it (at Patek Philippe once I was doing my apprenticeship) and stated, “That is stunning.” They stated they don’t have it anymore. A couple of years in the past, I needed to have precisely the identical feeling as once I noticed that watch. So I created my tourbillon. That’s it. After that, you study a bit extra, you undergo it, you have a look at the historical past, and say, “Okay, now it is smart.” The chronograph was one in every of my favorite issues, and that is what I needed so as to add – the tourbillon and the chronograph.
Mix these two?
Precisely.
After which, the change – all of the sudden you present up saying, “Okay, we’re going to do handmade circumstances.” That’s fascinating as a result of hardly anyone makes their very own circumstances for the amount that you just do. And now I hear there’s a dial maker as nicely – you’re making dials, you make straps. It’s like a whole image. The place did it come from?
The case and every little thing, for me, was at all times in regards to the constraints. The objective is you need to make (or attain for) the proper watch. You need to make a watch that corresponds to (who you’re as a watchmaker) in high quality and aesthetics. (Atelier Akrivia) began to work with some suppliers, they usually have their very own challenges; they need to earn money. Sooner or later, if you’re doing small volumes, it’s not fascinating for them. I perceive completely – they need to survive. However in a short time I stated, “Perhaps I’ve to discover a resolution and produce it in-house as a result of it’s going to at all times be an issue.”
The primary moments are at all times very tough, however the extra I proceed, the higher I really feel, and the extra I can realise the watch that I actually dream of and meet my expectations. I need to do one thing a bit extra minimalist. I realise that I’ve to take advantage of complicated factor so simple as doable. That is the sweetness, I imagine – essentially the most minimalist (method) doable. You’re making an attempt to do one thing in as easy a manner as doable, even when it’s complicated. By doing this by hand, you need to make it look straightforward, however to make it straightforward means you must assume rather a lot. While you assume rather a lot, it turns into a mature product. It’s a philosophy. It brings you different constraints that offer you an edge.
And is it the identical with the transfer to have dials executed in-house?
Yeah, as a result of I’m exploring; I attempt to discover myself. Now I’ve a objective: “Okay, I need to go there, I need to be on high of this mountain,” and I do know precisely the way to go there. I feel we’re completely different from different (manufacturers or makers when it comes to manufacturing) as a result of, once more, we’ve got a distinct measurement. We have now completely different challenges. And once more, I feel I’m nonetheless younger, so I’ve to show myself.
Do you continue to have rather a lot to show?
I feel so. I imply, in the event you have a look at Journe, perhaps he began his personal model at 40. Right this moment I’m 30-something. So for me, all of the previous was studying, and I’m nonetheless studying – I’ll study daily. However what I’m saying is, it was extra about being established (to begin with). Now I do know a bit extra about what I like. So, I feel now would be the begin; will probably be the beginning of one thing main.
I feel as we’re transferring ahead, there’s been a shift in the direction of doing issues extra merely, as you had been saying. Simply doing the utmost doable when it comes to ending, precision, or how nicely we are able to make this watch only for the pure timekeeping a part of issues. Is that one thing that motivates you as nicely?
For positive. I feel that is the sweetness. Watchmaking by no means stops. While you discover one thing, if you (accomplish) one thing… You end your watch; you get pleasure from it for a couple of minutes, and also you begin to come again to this actuality of “what are you able to do higher?” It’s fairly unhappy, as a result of it’s by no means completed. My grandmother used to say, “When you don’t have anything to do, you die.” I really feel in lots of senses it signifies that in the event you don’t have this vitality to do one thing higher – otherwise you assume it’s excellent – it means you must cease. But it surely’s by no means excellent (for me). You end one thing, okay, it’s good, however what are you able to do higher? This can drive me all my life. The second that I don’t have this vitality or will anymore, perhaps I’m already executed.
When it comes to discovering new challenges, how do you try this whereas protecting it easy?
For a watchmaker, you need to make it easy, sure, however you need to discover. When you have a look at historical past, you don’t have that many unbiased watchmakers that did issues – actual issues. They didn’t as a result of it’s very complicated. I simply really feel such as you completely need to do some complicated watches (as in complicated to make), however preserve them so simple as doable when it comes to utility.
That is associated to the factor I’ve been asking watchmakers about, which is if you see the response to the watches that you just make and the way collectors understand you. You’re like a rock star to many individuals. How do you are feeling about this?
Actually, I feel we’re in our personal bubble. I attempt to keep away from (this sort of notion). I imply, it’s good – it makes promoting some watches a bit simpler perhaps – however actually, do I actually get pleasure from it? I simply need to neglect as a result of, once more, I’ve a lot to lose. I began years in the past and it was not straightforward. Right this moment I can’t imagine it – it’s stunning – but it surely’s not executed.
My grandmother (additionally) used to say, “If it’s not onerous, you shouldn’t imagine it.” It’s important to work for one thing. If it appears too straightforward, one thing shouldn’t be good. So for me, I’m simply comfortable that we are able to make a residing from our ardour. I’m tremendous motivated. I’m tremendous disciplined about constructing one thing that I hope folks will bear in mind. I’ve been impressed by many watchmakers as a result of they did nicely. I hope I’ll have not less than a few of what they did.
I’m right here for the long run. I’m not right here for one shot. I need to construct one thing. That’s why we began this atelier, and why we’ve got apprentices now. It’s in regards to the future. I respect the custom. I respect watchmaking. I’m very fortunate, and I acquired this luck that I need to handle (for the long run).
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW #83 Spring 2026 Subject
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