When is a motion greater than the sum of its components? There are lots of solutions to that however probably the most helpful, if banal, is that this: when it drives the arms to ship probably the most regular charge attainable, whereas encased throughout the protecting shell of a case. Earlier than this, a motion is only a insurgent in quest of a trigger, if you’ll; we are able to handle a greater metaphor right here. With Components 1 season properly and really upon us, you would possibly think about for those who would like wanting on the engine and finding out its superior construction as an exhibit, or for those who would reasonably see it energy a race automobile, because it ought to.
All this preamble is only a means of stating the plain: Watch manufacturers have good causes to not current actions independently, at the least for the general public’s eyes. With the brand new Calibre GP4800, Girard-Perregaux scraped that exact little bit of the playbook. In truth, though the embargo broke in September, the model has been speaking about this motion and the watches it’ll energy for a while now with choose press, of which WOW Singapore is one.
Regardless of a whole bunch of years of producing historical past, 80 patents, greater than 30 energetic actions, with notable entries in 1998 (calibre 3300) and 2017 (calibre 1800), the La Chaux-des-Fonds model needs to make an influence with the brand new Calibre GP4800. The manufacture thinks that one of the best ways to navigate the chaos of our occasions is methodically, and we agree.
We already printed the motion reveal on-line, however all embargoes have since handed so, in fact, the particular assortment of watches is understood too: the Laureato, which celebrates its fiftieth birthday with this new calibre, the momentous Calibre GP4800, which we’ll henceforth consult with as GP4800.
On that observe, taking us by way of this motion reveal is Girard-Perregaux Managing Director Marc Michel-Amadry, who was appointed to his position earlier this yr. Michel-Amadry is knowledgeable watch government, aside from a stint as Managing Director of Sotheby’s Switzerland. He was even based mostly proper right here in Singapore, working for LVMH, however Michel-Amadry is perhaps extra acquainted to look at commerce insiders for his final position. From 2017 to October final yr, he was the Chief Business Officer for IWC.
Additionally chiming in with particular market insights is Regional Model Director for Southeast Asia and the Pacific Nguyen Vuong Thong, though Michel-Amadry has some expertise on this space too. Given Michel- Amadry’s background, we merely needed to ask about what the story is with the Laureato, a sports activities class watch, and the way it stands aside from its many distinguished friends. Nonetheless, Michel-Amadry doesn’t suppose it actually has way more than superficial hyperlinks with different such watches.
“The Laureato was designed by Girard-Perregaux in-house and with an in-house motion when it was first launched in 1975, not a Jaeger-LeCoultre motion or one thing…however that’s vital as a result of it’s a part of our DNA,” he says. He goes on to notice, accurately, that not one of the unique built-in bracelet watches have been a part of a pattern. Likewise, the Laureato’s attraction was outlined by itself phrases – it housed a major quartz motion that finally led to all watchmakers adapting its timekeeping frequency customary.
“The Laureato was designed by Girard-Perregaux in- home and with an in-house motion when it was first launched in 1975, not a Jaeger-LeCoultre motion or one thing… however that’s vital as a result of it’s a part of our DNA”
— Girard-Perregaux Managing Director,
Marc Michel-Amadry
So, origin story apart, what really is going on right here and does Girard-Perregaux not have already got its personal actions? In fact, to start with, the scenario with quartz is totally different as we speak, now that it’s not a frontier value exploring for many watchmakers. We will dig in now, as we began on-line, with the brand new motion. That is actually nothing just like the debut of the Fixed Escapement L.M. in 2013 as a result of GP4800 is a Swiss lever automated motion. Because of this Girard- Perregaux has aspirations in thoughts that transcend the Laureato Fifty as properly.
In contrast to a calibre that deploys radically totally different technical options, GP4800 is able to go proper from the beginning. It boasts compact dimensions, being simply 25.6mm in diameter and 4.28mm thick, and is envisioned as the bottom for future issues. Trying on the motion, there’s a clear callback to the structure of the model’s iconic Three Gold Bridges design. Here’s what the press launch says about it, so you could have it from the horse’s mouth. The veterinary evaluation will come later.
“GP4800 is fitted with a silicium escapement, that includes an escape wheel, pallet lever and curler, all crafted from the light-weight materials,” reads the presser, and we are able to affirm that the one lacking factor not in silicon (identified in French as silicium) is the hairspring. Clearly, there’s a plan to suit such a spring right here as a result of the stability is adjusted through the telltale screws on the stability wheel, reasonably than by adjusting the spring itself (silicon hairsprings can’t be adjusted; they’re manufactured as completely as attainable). We’re just a little unclear on “curler” and a solution is forthcoming from the manufacture.
Michel-Amadry is happy concerning the potential of GP4800 when he confirms the structural nods within the motion to the aforementioned Three Gold Bridges. “I believe what’s fascinating is that folks will instantly recognise that, when it comes to development, we began from scratch versus what we have now performed to date with the opposite conventional Girard-Perregaux actions. (The GP4800) is constructed round three bridges from stability wheels to the gear prepare and barrels, and we launched numerous new functionalities.”
“So, this new motion might be hosted within the very particular restricted version 200-piece Laureato Fifty (which the model calls FIFTY, for the file),” Michel- Amadry continues. “We didn’t need this motion to be a part of the common assortment (for a begin). What we needed was for the primary use of GP4800 to be iconic and significant.
On this celebration piece (for the fiftieth anniversary of the Laureato), the concept is that this can be a testomony to in-house mastery. Not solely when it comes to the way you produce but additionally the way you design, the way you conceive, and the way you develop (new watches).”
Trying on the motion, for those who think about it with out the oscillating mass, you will notice these three bridges – one for the stability, one for the gear prepare and one for the barrel – clearly. As for the features Michel-Amadry talked about, these are actually options of the motion and embrace the brand new escapement and the ability reserve of 55 hours, which he says would possibly go as excessive as 60 hours however Girard-Perregaux is being conservative, formally; for the file, most manufacture Girard-Perregaux actions have energy reserves within the 40-plus hours vary.
“We now have additionally achieved higher chronometry, in fact, with this new calibre. So, principally it’s an vital enchancment,” mentioned Michel- Amadry.
The main enchancment right here is within the space of reliability, each in keeping with the press supplies and Michel-Amadry, who’s extraordinarily upbeat concerning the efficiency of GP4800 over time. It’s positively a incontrovertible fact that there are fewer elements than in the usual 3000 collection and having an inexpensive energy reserve, a double stability bridge and good chronometric efficiency is a giant deal in a motion that’s comparatively compact.
It is usually value noting that the automated winding system right here represents the very newest and bestest in all issues Swiss watchmaking. The skeletonised 18k gold oscillating mass is mounted on ball bearings with ceramic balls and a shock absorption system, with each being crucial in any respectable and strong calibre. The latter may also cut back among the noise from the rotor however that continues to be to be examined.
Past the structural issues, the calibre additionally appears nice, with at least 10 various kinds of ending evident. To be clear right here, Girard-Perregaux doesn’t declare that these are all performed by hand – GP4800 will not be an artisanal motion.
That doesn’t hold it from being simple on the attention although, with diamond bevelled edges on plates and bridges, vertical Côtes de Genève, mirror-polished screw heads, and sandblasting on the seen components of the mainplate. Tellingly, GP4800 provides a sign of the place it is perhaps headed with this, and by the truth that even the surfaces that aren’t seen have been given the eye of the finneseurs – round graining graces the underside of the mainplate, as seen within the photos.
All this leaves one matter largely unattended to, and that’s the Laureato Fifty. Nicely, we’re not certain by any embargoes however the watch does deserve its personal area. For now, we’ll say that the mannequin differs from the unique most importantly in its 39mm measurement – the unique was obtainable in three sizes: 31, 33 and 35mm, in keeping with Vuong, and considerably simply confirmed with a little bit of Google sleuthing.
elements with a mixture of metal and 3N yellow gold
The press launch notes that the tonneau case has been reimagined with sharper angles, deeper bevels, a greater built-in bracelet (though it’s lacking the old-style center bit in gold, as an alternative bearing a extra standard gold center hyperlink), and a class-leading water resistance of 150m.
“I believe you must actually have a look at the proportions (and the watch in individual) as a result of it appears like the whole lot is similar, when it comes to the present Laureato, however principally the whole lot has modified,” says Michel- Amadry. There’s something to this, particularly while you evaluate this watch with current Laureato fashions, and it goes past the absence of the Girard-Perregaux brand and the Laureato identify itself.
“The Laureato Fifty is the essence – the quintessence, actually – of the Laureato,” Michel-Amadry continues. “It has all of the pedigree; it has all the most recent enhancements, in how we end the case and the way we conceive of design; and when it comes to the GP4800 motion, it has one thing that might be there for the subsequent 20 years! Due to this fact, it’s actually probably the most completed Laureato version we have now had to date.”
These are sturdy phrases to shut on, however that is actually just the start for the brand new Laureato. The subsequent instalment on this collection will cowl the Laureato Fifty in additional element, together with the essential matter of value. We dare say that for a metal and gold watch, with matching bracelet, the proposition is compelling – and there are usually not many bimetal references to match towards.
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW #81 Autumn 2025 Difficulty
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